Entropy

I've always excused myself for knowing little about physics. Often, I addend the remark with a kitschy apology like "I camp for a living or "I studied English, which I speak very well." This past week climbing ice in the South Fork Canyon, I worked closely with physics, or maybe just my lay understanding of it.

Nick approaches Moratorium

I finished a nine day ski trip in the Absoraka mountains ready to ply ice. I'd heard shady side climbs were getting fat, so I packed up and headed to Cody. Day one offered a short hike up to the Moratorium which was rumored to be climbable.

Tiny Dancer on the first pitch

Nick took the first pitch, which climbed like off-vertical eggshells with dubious protection. Ice this thins likes to pitch off at the slightest provocation, so Nick tapped gently. At the belay, I was showered with whatever he knocked down.

View of redemption

I drew the second pitch which in years past had been a short curtain followed by an easy ramp. Unfortunately the ramp hadn't formed and I was pushed onto a steep curtain to top off the flow. It looked hard from the bottom, so I clipped leashes onto my tools and proceeded to bash, thrutch and otherwise unceremoniously tap my way up the feature. Near the top, with only one stick needed to get to a good rest and shake out, I lost it. I swung and swung and swung and couldn't get my tool to stick. I tried to shake out but I was too pumped. With a primeval scream, I peeled off ass first, tools gyrating from my wrists, until one of the skinny 8mm ropes caught me. Shaken but uninjured, I went back up and finished the pitch.

The next couple days we got some good climbing done, but the South Fork still needs a bit more love before things will be great. Word on the street is the last three weeks have been good and I'm excited to get back.